It starts by determining what kind of kayaking experience you want. What do you intend to use the kayak for ninety percent of the time? Do you just want to dink around close to home, get out and stretch your muscles on day trips, pack gear for a ten day expedition, surf, or fish? The reason why it matters is because kayaks are generally designed for a particular purpose in mind. Your intent will determine what kind of kayak you purchase and how much it will cost. There are basically five categories for all kayaks, not including those made for whitewater. These categories include plastic and composite (fiberglass, kevlar and graphite) made boats, as well as decked and sit-on-top configured boats. The categories are as follows: General Recreation ($300-$700), Surf ($500-$1,000), Sportsman ($700-$1,100), Light Touring ($600-$1,000), Touring ($900-$3,000). However, there are a few kayaks, such as the Necky Dorado and the Ocean Kayak Scrambler, that will allow you to crossover between some categories. For example, you can dink around in flat water and have fun with them in the surf. Neither kayak excels at either use, but they make it possible. They also happen to be among the least expensive kayaks on the market.

Be careful about jumping into a purchase based solely on price or the recommendation of the salesperson. There is a good chance you will end up with a kayak that does not suite your needs. A good kayak salesperson will show you the choices, based on information you told them about your intent. They will tell you the features and benefits of each model, then have you test paddle the choices. Once this process is completed, you will know which model is right for you.

If you do not know what you will use the kayak for most of the time, do not buy one yet. Instead, do some homework. Try to look five years down the road. Let's say you decide in the beginning that your intent is to dink around, will that still be your intent five years from now? Maybe, maybe not. Take some time making a decision about your purchase, whether during only one outing or a whole season of paddling. Going on a tour, taking a lesson and/or renting a variety of kayaks on your own will help you become a more educated buyer, as well as help you determine just what you want out of the sport.

THINGS TO CONSIDER
Depending on your intent, there may or may not be a lot of things to consider. For example, if you only want to dink around, you should not be concerned about having space for eighty pounds of gear and food. But, if you are planning a ten day, self contained tour around the Florida keys, you should be very concerned about having the space. Following are several other factors that should be considered before making a purchase.

Stability
As you might expect, this factor is usually the number one concern of a new paddler. However, stability is often misunderstood. What feels stable sitting in calm water may turn out to be unstable in choppy water. Did you know that there are actually two separate areas of stability in every boat? There is initial stability (a.k.a. primary stability) and secondary stability (a.k.a. final stability). Initial stability is how stable the boat feels when it is sitting flat in the water. Secondary stability is how stable the boat feels when it is sitting on edge in the water. Which do you think is more important? If you answered secondary stability, you are correct. Here is another way to look at it. Are you likely to capsize while sitting level in the water? Not likely. Are you likely to capsize while leaning over on the boats edge? More likely for sure. What is going to reduce the chance of a capsize in the second scenario? Secondary stability! Be careful not to get lured into a false sense of security with boats that have a high initial stability. Make sense? If not, call me and I will be happy to explain it in further detail.

Stability is mostly affected by center of gravity, the lower the better. Then the shape of the hull comes into play. A flat bottom boat will have a higher initial stability than a boat with a V-shaped bottom. Boats with a lot of flare in the sides will have a higher secondary stability than ones with vertical sides. Boats with wider beams will generally have higher secondary stability than narrower boats. Boats with rocker (curvature of the hull from bow to stern) will be more stable in all areas than boats without rocker.

Glide/Efficiency
How easily does the kayak move through the water? Should you be concerned with this factor? Well, if you need to paddle twenty miles, you are going to need a boat that moves very efficiently through the water. However, if you are kayak fishing within a half mile of the put-in, that factor does not matter so much. Typically, kayaks that do not move very efficiently through the water have a higher level of stability, which is important when fishing. Perhaps you are someone who gets tired easily; then having a boat with an easy glide will be less tiring to paddle.

The efficiency of a kayak hull is directly affected by its length, width and shape. Long, narrow boats tend to glide easier than short, wide boats. A hull that is more V-shaped will cut the water better than one that is flat. Just as a hull that has no rocker cuts the water better than one that has rocker.

Maneuverability & Tracking Ability
Having a maneuverable kayak can come in quite handy if you are paddling narrow, winding creeks. On the other hand, when paddling a long distance, it is helpful to have a kayak that tracks a straight line easily. As with glide, maneuverability and tracking ability are largely affected by the length and width of the boat, the amount of rocker, and shape of the bottom. Short boats turn easier than long ones, boats of a given length with no rocker track better than boats with rocker, and flat bottom boats of a given length turn better than boats with a V-shaped bottom.

Weight
Weight can be a huge factor when choosing a kayak. If you are not able to manage the weight of the kayak out of the water, then you might be restricted to paddling with other people all of the time. Fortunately, there are many products on the market that assist in dealing with a kayak out of the water, such as carts and car racks.

The weight of a kayak is most largely affected by the material from which it is constructed. Plastic kayaks of a given size weigh more than composite (fiberglass, kevlar or graphite) kayaks. Sometimes as much as twenty percent more. Of course, the overall size of a kayak makes a difference. The larger the kayak, the more material that is used, the heavier it will be.

Durability
This factor may or may not be of consideration for you. I think it depends on how hard you are on your gear. If you are prone to thrashing your gear, then buy a more durable kayak. Plastic kayaks have a higher impact resistance, while composite boats, being made of a harder material, are more abrasion resistant. Plus, if you do scratch a composite boat, you are usually only scratching gelcoat paint, not the fabric of the hull. A gelcoat scratch can be patched easily.

As far as major repairs are concerned, composite boats are easier and more effectively repaired than plastic boats. Of course, you are not as likely to need a major repair on a plastic boat in the first place.

Sit-on-top Kayaks vs. Decked Kayaks
"Which is better," or, "Which is easier," are questions I get constantly. There are, of course, pros and cons to both. For example, sit-on-top kayaks usually require less effort when recovering from a capsize, whereas decked kayaks usually provide drier rides because of their ability to be sealed up with a spray skirt. Sit-on-tops allow you to get an even tan, whereas decked kayaks are more stable for a given size and shape because of a lower center of gravity. One configuration is not necessarily better than the other. It is a matter of personal preference.

Price
Aside from stability, price seems to be the next most important factor for most buyers. After all, money doesn't grow on trees. However, unless it means the difference between getting on the water or not, do not let this factor govern your entire decision. Like I said before, the decision should be based more on intent. If you are in the need for a touring kayak, it is not going to do you any good to buy a general recreation kayak. It simply will not allow you to do what you want. The additional expense of a touring kayak would more than justify itself when used to its fullest capability. Of course, it works both ways. If you know that a general recreation type kayak suites your needs best, save some money.

There are several factors that affect the price of a kayak. The most common are type of kayak, material used to build the kayak, and features on the kayak. Plastic kayaks cost about half as much as fiberglass kayaks. There is an even greater difference between plastic and kevlar. Kayaks with a lot of features (i.e. bulkheads, hatches, rudders, deck bungies, etc.) are going to cost more than kayaks without them.

Please keep in mind that the information provided in this article is just the tip of the iceberg. There is more to know about kayak design, stability and handling. Nothing can substitute for you doing your homework and test paddling a variety of kayaks. Again, taking a class is a great way to begin the learning process. Happy hunting!

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